How the job runs
- 1Surveyfollow each steel line from the meter out to the fixtures it feeds
- 2Plan routeschoose paths through basement ceilings and walls with the least disruption
- 3Install new linesrun copper or PEX with proper supports and shut-offs
- 4Switch overmove fixtures over to the new lines room by room
- 5Testpressure-test, flush, and strip out or cap the old steel
01Why galvanized fails
Galvanized pipe is steel with a zinc coating. Once the zinc wears away, the steel rusts, and rust builds up on the inside wall. A three-quarter-inch pipe can close down to a straw. Hot lines usually go first.
In older Scarborough bungalows, the basement may already be copper while the walls upstairs still hide galvanized risers. We check both.
| Found in | Many homes built before the late 1960s |
|---|---|
| Symptoms | Low pressure, discoloured water, leaks at threads |
| Replacement | Copper or PEX, with dielectric fittings where metals meet |
02Copper or PEX
Copper is durable and familiar. PEX is flexible, faster to install through finished walls and resistant to freezing damage. Both meet code; the choice depends on budget and access.
03Living through it
We repipe in stages so you have water each night. Openings are cut cleanly for patching.
04Partial replacement
Replacing only the worst section of galvanized can help in the short term, but the remaining pipe continues to rust. We tell you honestly how much is left and what full replacement involves.