How the job runs
- 1Measurescrew our gauge onto a hose bib and read pressure with nothing running
- 2Compare fixturesone tap or the whole house tells us where to look
- 3Check the regulatortest any pressure-reducing valve on the main
- 4Look for restrictionsgalvanized pipe, partially closed valves, clogged aerators
- 5Correctreplace valves, add arrestors or repipe as needed
01Low pressure
If one faucet is weak, it is almost always a clogged aerator or a cartridge full of scale. If the whole house is weak, look at the main valve, a narrow old service line or galvanized pipe choking with rust. We test at several points to narrow it down.
Pressure from the city can also vary by street elevation; homes on higher ground may see lower pressure.
| One fixture weak | Clogged aerator, cartridge or supply stop |
|---|---|
| Whole house weak | Main valve, old service line or galvanized piping |
| Banging pipes | High pressure or fast-closing valves |
02Too much pressure
High pressure is hard on everything: toilet fill valves, washing machine valves, water heater relief valves and pipes. If pressure tests high, a pressure-reducing valve on the main protects the whole system.
03Water hammer
A loud bang when a washer or dishwasher valve snaps shut is water hammer. A small arrestor near the appliance absorbs the shock.
04Hot side only
If only the hot water is weak, the problem is usually at the tank itself, such as a half-shut valve, scale in the outlet nipple or a failing dip tube. Cold-side flow being fine narrows the search quickly.