How the job runs
- 1Shut the coldclose the valve on the cold inlet at the top of the tank
- 2Cut the energygas valve to pilot or off, breaker off for electric units
- 3Find the dripcheck connections, the relief valve outlet, the drain valve and the tank seams
- 4Decidefittings and valves are repairable; a leaking tank body is not
- 5Replace or repairswap the heater or fix the component, then refill and test
01Where the water is really coming from
Water heaters sweat, drip from vent condensation, and leak from fittings, and all three can look alike on a basement floor. We dry everything off and watch. A dripping relief valve discharge tube is a warning sign about pressure, not a nuisance to cap off; it should never be plugged.
A slow leak from a threaded connection can often be fixed on the spot.
| Relief valve dripping | May indicate excess pressure or temperature; the valve and expansion should be checked |
|---|---|
| Drain valve weeping | Often fixed with a new valve |
| Water from the tank bottom | Internal corrosion; plan on replacement |
02Expansion and pressure
Houses fitted with a backflow preventer or a pressure regulator at the meter are closed systems. When water heats up it expands with nowhere to go, and pressure spikes push the relief valve open. A small expansion tank on the cold side solves that.
03Replacement day
If the tank itself is leaking, we drain it, disconnect gas or power and venting, carry it out and install the new unit with fresh connectors, a proper drain pan where needed, and correct venting.